In August 2018 Tom Livingstone (UK) from the Mountain Equipment Team together with Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar (Sl) successfully completed the first ascent of Latok I in Pakistan. The team reached the summit over the West Col on one of the world’s most coveted routes, which had almost achieved cult status and on which over 30 teams of the world’s best alpinists had previously failed.
“After seven days, we are all overjoyed to be back from the mountain safe and sound. We simul-climbed the easier pitches on mixed ground. But in many places the ice was brittle or steep – mixed terrain and classic, alpine sh*** terrain. We set up our makeshift bivouacs in crevasses, under seracs and ice mushrooms. Nevertheless, we survived and had a fun week.
More about Tom’s expedition and his whole story you can find here.
Tom’s Expedition Kit
To make sure you are well equipped for your next adventure, Tom let us look into his own luggage. Apart from the appropriate hardware, it is above all the clothing that is essential for survival on such an expedition. Check out Toms get up below, and what you need to take with you to survive one of the gnarliest routes in the world:
Jackets
Mountain Equipment Vega Jacket
For a long time, Tom could not decide between the Vega jacket and the warmer, much bulkier K7 jacket. In the end, he took the risk of freezing from time to time – he never regretted his decision. Even at 7,145m, the down jacket kept him warm and alive! It must be noted that he tested the Vega’s thermal performance previously on Mount Alberta, in Patagonia, and in Alaska.
Mountain Equipment Dewline Vest
This lighter down vest is unfortunately no longer in the collection. The current Frostline waistcoat comes closest to it. Tom had it with him as an extra layer of insulation under his Vega jacket. He didn’t wear it on the summit day, but at night it was essential for that extra portion of warmth.
Mountain Equipment Tupilak Atmo Jacket
Tom swears by this jacket. It offers perfect weather protection, does not weigh much, and is very robust. He is particularly impressed by the minimalism and the individual breast pockets.
Mountain Equipment Transition Jacket
Tom wore this warm and breathable mid-layer jacket throughout the whole adventure. Judging by the smell, he probably never took it off *wink*.
Mountain Equipment Eclipse Hooded Jacket
With the large, close-fitting hood and thumb loops, the warmth stays on the body, where it ought to stay. Hardly any other base layer is lighter and warmer.
Trousers
Mountain Equipment Tupilak Pants
These robust hardshell pants can take anything and are not too heavy. Inner gaiters close off perfectly and keep snow at bay. Useful hint: The full-length zip on the side is a great help get urgent business done in a jiffy :)
Mountain Equipment Powerstretch Salopette
These pants look like a toddler’s jump but they really do the job. There are simply no cold bridges around the waist, and you will stay snug as a bug!
Mountain Equipment Compressor Trousers
These insulated synthetic fibre trousers were worn by Tom on the summit bid fof Latok 1 – as well as on many other tours. They can take any weather, you decide to throw at them.
Accessories
Mountain Equipment Supercouloir Gloves
Mountain Equipment’s best glove with Gore-Tex for mountaineering and climbing in cold conditions Tom swears by the fit and has it with him on every tour.
Mountain Equipment Citadel Mittens
The glove for the summit bid. A two-piece insulated mitten, whose outer, highly water-repellent layer Tom likes to put on over his climbing gloves when the weather really turns nasty.
Mountain Equipment Randonee Gauntlet Gloves
You don’t want to miss the glove with the really long cuff. Warm and breathable with awesome grip and high wearing comfort.
Gear
Mountain Equipment Tupilak 45+Backpack
The ultimate alpine backpack. At the beginning of Tom’s tour, the backpack was, of course, packed to bursting point. In the end, it was almost empty and still very easy to carry. If you are trying to shave off every gram, you can remove all components from the backpack with ease.
Mountain Equipment Fireflash Sleeping Bag
With a recommended temperature of -14° and a weight of only 1000g, the sleeping bag from Mountain Equipment is convincing. Tom found the warmth-to-weight ratio to be outstanding – even in the bivouac at 6,800m! However, the boys took turns in climbing the mountain. One slept in the Fireflash and the other two in a double sleeping bag specially made by Mountain Equipment – two is always better than one!
Who is Tom Livingstone?
Tom has a preference for winter and alpine climbing. The high mountains and difficult routes of the world inspire him. He loves the feeling of climbing a hard route onsight, feeling the pain of the ‘Hot Aches’ while ice climbing, and watching the sunrise and set in the high mountains
He is particularly fond of Scottish winter climbing and alpinism. In summer he can be found mainly on difficult alpine routes, sea cliffs, or granite needles in the Alps. Tom’s alpine resume is more than impressive: the Supercanaleta at Fitz Roy, the free ascent of the Lesueur Route (ED2) at Dru, the winter ascent of the Frendopfeiler in a day (which only a few before him have managed), and the north face of Mount Alberta. Tom also has no need to hide when it comes to trad climbing with ascents up to E9 under his belt.
Tom lives in North Wales, where he can be found hanging of Gogarth and cranking hard around the Llanberis Pass in the Snowdonia National Park. He describes himself as a ‘gear freak’ and is heavily involved in the development and design of mountain equipment products.
If you are also interested in products for ‘extreme expeditions’, be sure to check out the Mountain Equipment brand shop and discover the latest products now!