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Warm, soft yet highly technical

Fleece fabric, the lowdown!

7 minutes read
Fleece has been inspiring outdoor enthusiasts since the 1980s. Technical yet soft fabric, warm, light and cosy. But how is and from what is fleece made? What are the quality differences? Our fleece fabric information explains what you should look out for.

What is fleece?

Fleecejacke
The classic fleece jacket.| Photo: Houdini

Fleece is a knitted fabric with a cosy, soft, brushed inside finish. Traditional fleece is usually made of polyester (PES). However, fleece fabrics made of wool, cotton or various fibre blends are now also available – and there are also differences in terms of their structure. Fleece clothing in the outdoor and mountain sports sector is mostly made of synthetic fibres or other technical material blends.

The benefits

Fleece is warm, light, cuddly, easy to care for, keeps its shape and dries very quickly – at least when it comes to classic polyester fleece or a fabric blend of polyester and wool. High-quality fleece draws perspiration away from the body and distributes it over a large area on the outside, which promotes drying. The dense fibre structure on the surface of some types of fleece can even be water-repellent, but never waterproof.

Depending on the quality of the fabric, fleece is sturdy, abrasion-resistant and durable. Disadvantage: Fleece can get statically charged. In terms of wearing comfort, it is more a matter of personal preference. Some people find polyester fleece to feel rubbery on the skin, others love the advantages of what this unique synthetic fibre brings to the table.

Why wear fleece clothing?

Fleece is frequently used in outdoor clothing and equipment, for example in jackets, vests, sleeping bag inserts and blankets. Its functional benefits make it ideal as a light, warm mid-layer for active sports like – skiing, mountaineering, climbing, cycling or running. Of course, fleece clothing is also very popular for everyday athleisure wear or for a recreational hike.

In line with the layering principle, very light, fine fleece qualities are found in warm, breathable technical underwear. Most fleece clothing, however, is intended as a mid-layer with a focus on insulation.

Especially in dry, windless conditions and in the “transitional season”, fleece jackets and fleece vests are the names of the game. Especially during sweaty sports, fleece clothing provides warmth without immediately overheating you. The excellent moisture-wicking quality of the fabric speaks for itself.

100s, 200s, 300s fleece: what does that actually mean?

The specification refers to the basis weight of the fabric in grams per square metre. Fleece with 300 grams per square metre is very thick and warm. 100 grams indicate a very light quality, as used in a summer fleece or as a light second layer. Conclusions about the thermal performance of the fleece garment can therefore be primarily drawn from the weight.

How is fleece made?

Fleece is a knitted fabric. During production, so-called plush loops – small loops of yarn – are first formed, which are then cut open and brushed. This gives fleece a cosy and soft structure that provides a pleasant feeling on the skin and good heat retention.

What types of fleece are out there?

A modern fleece comes with many facets: for example, there is very light and fine microfleece, high-pile but light plush fleece, particularly soft wellness fleece, cotton fleece, wool fleece and even wool-polyester blends. The fibre combo in stretch fleece contains elastane, which makes the fabrics particularly stretchy and is sure to follow every movement you decide to throw at it.

Some fleece fabrics also offer a smooth outer surface and are only napped on the inside, such as knit fleece. Fleece fabrics with a waffle-like structured inside, so-called waffle fleeces, are designed for quick moisture management. In addition, there are different material thicknesses or weight classes. Thus a classic fleece does indeed come in many different variations.

What difference does a high fibre loft make?

“High loft” is the term used to describe fleece fabrics with long fibres, i.e. with a plushy structure. Such fabrics store heat particularly well because more insulating air is trapped in the spaces between the fibres. At the same time, the material is very light and compresses well.

Moisture transport and breathability:

Bei sportlichen Aktivitäten ist ein atmungsaktiver Fleecestoff wichtig, um Feuchtigkeit gut abtransportieren zu können
Breathable fleece fabric is important for athletic activities and it needs to be able to wick moisture away. | Photo: Patagonia

Fleece is considered a very breathable fabric, although this does depend on the quality of the fabric that’s been used. Particularly dense or high-pile fleece fabrics perform worse in terms of breathability than lighter qualities. Fleece fabrics with a soft brushed inside can transport moisture away more quickly because they draw moisture away from the body a bit like blotting paper.

Is fleece waterproof?

No. Fleece fabrics may be water-repellent depending on their structure and surface. Only outdoor materials with a corresponding coating or membrane can really be classed as waterproof. Some hard fleece fabrics, similar to softshell fabrics, may offer water-repellent and highly wind-repellent benefits.

Wool, polyester blends and the advantages

Wool is increasingly being discovered as a fibre component in fleece clothing. Ortovox is one of the pioneers here and uses natural fibre wool primarily on the inside of the garments. In jackets and hoodies, it ensures a pleasant feeling on the skin and has a climate-regulating effect. This means that you don’t overheat as quickly and the wool absorbs moisture without feeling wet. The polyester outer is abrasion-resistant, quick-drying and suitable for backpacking. The fibre mix really does combine the best of both worlds.

How can you recognise a high-quality fleece?

Pilling, or a tendency to pill, is one of the things to look for in a fleece. The small, matted balls on the surface of the fabric not only look horrible but also reduce the durability and insulation properties of the fabric. For this reason, pilling is considered a reason for complaint about fleece fabrics from brands such as Polartec. As a rule, the first signs of pilling appear during washing. If you notice this in the shop already, best leave the garment on the hanger.

You can recognise high-quality fleece by the labels of the brand manufacturers Polartec or Pontetorto. They are of the same quality, and you can buy both without hesitation, as well as the own brands of the big outdoor manufacturers. Scandinavian companies like Haglöfs and Peak Performance use excellent fleece fabrics. Arcteryx, Patagonia and Outdoor Research are also known for high-quality fleece clothing. Of the European companies, Vaude and Mammut are definitely worth mentioning. Both emphasise the environmental aspect, i.e. the use of recycled polyester.

What is anti-pilling fleece?

Fleece fabrics that are specifically manufactured to minimise pilling are often labelled as anti-pilling fleece. A reputable manufacturer is not always behind these fabrics. At least there remains some hope that there will be no rude awakening after the first wash.

How to wash fleece correctly

Fleece einfach aufhängen und trocknen lassen
Simply hang up the fleece and let it dry. | Photo: Bergzeit

Fleece is basically very easy to care for. Blankets and garments are simply washed in the washing machine. The washing label indicates what settings to use.

  • Tip: If you prefer to remove labels, simply take your smartphone out of your pocket before cutting them off and save the valuable care information on your mobile phone. If you prefer analogue, you can also collect your labels in a folder instead of binning them straight away

If you don’t have any care information at hand, our general instructions for washing fleece clothing and fabrics are sure to help:

  • Please read the label!
  • Empty all pockets and close all zips.
  • Turn fleece garments inside out to protect the outside.
  • Wash in the washing machine at 30 degrees or according to the manufacturer’s instructions on the gentle programme with a mild detergent.
  • Important: DO NOT (!!!) use fabric softener or bleach!
  • Spin moderately in your drier

What is the best way to dry fleece?

Fleece dries very quickly, just hang it up and give it chance to dry out. It usually only takes a few hours for a fleece jacket or waistcoat to be ready for use again. If the textile is to be put in the dryer to make the fabric as fluffy as possible, just make sure to keep the drying time to a minimum.

Who invented fleece?

Today’s Polartec company is considered the inventor of fleece. Malinda Chouinard, the wife of Patagonia founder Ivon Chouinard, “introduced” the technical fabric for the outdoor market. In the early 1980s, Malinda discovered the first polar fleece fabrics at Malden Mills (now Polartec) while searching for a lightweight, breathable and warming material. Shortly after, a partnership began that laid the foundation for the material’s popularity today.

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Welcome to the Bergzeit Journal! Enjoy our product reviews, buyers' guides, care instructions, packing lists and general tips & tricks for the great outdoors. The Bergzeit Journal editorial team, together with many external authors and mountaineering experts, provide insightful articles on all important mountain and outdoor topics, as well as current industry and background knowledge.